[TUTO] Nettoyer des peaux animales

[pirla]

J'ai récupéré une peau de 14" en veau (ou vache cochon couvée ... que sais-je), bref une peau animale

Le pb est que cette dernière semble avoir servi de table à manger pendant quelques années : elle est véritablement crado

Je ne demandais quelle serait la meilleure methode pour la nettoyer sans compromettre ni la souplesse de la peau ni sa résistance.
- raclage à la lame de rasoir
- ponçage léger
- un savon / crème à cuir

Quelqu'un a une idée ?

[So What ?]

J'avais lu un truc il y a quelque temps. Un ponçage ultra léger oui, un lavage avec un chiffon à l'eau savonneuse et pour le soin, soit frotter avec une peau de banane côté fruit, soit de la crème pour les mains.

[Guig...]

+1 avec so what?,
Un ponçage leger, un coup de neutrogena pour les mains et c'est reparti comme en 40.

[chico]

Comment nettoyer des peaux animales ?
Au secours !

[carlosdubrazil]

Qui dit nettoyer dit mouiller.
Et mouiller une peau animale c'est pas le top.
Laisse comme ca, c'est plus vintage.

[Guig...]

Avec des produits de rénovation pour le cuir ?!

[soft]

Qui dit nettoyer dit mouiller.
Et mouiller une peau animale c'est pas le top.
Laisse comme ca, c'est plus vintage.

qui dit nettoyer ne dit pas mouiller; tu peux très bien nettoyer à l'essence F ou à l'eau écarlate;

remouiller une peau ne me paraît pas bien dangereux; quand je monte une peau je la trempe et elle se retend en séchant;

dans ton cas ou dirait plutôt des champignons, et ce serait plus inquiètant; essayer un fongicide

[vince]

au lait .

mais franchement il faut il aller molo .

l'ideal etant le lait pour BB ( celuil qu'on met sur leur fesse).

[chico]

Merci pour vos idées....

Du lait pour peau de bébé... à l'eau écarlate... il n'y a qu'un pas !
L'eau écarlate c'est d'ailleurs ce que j'utilisais sur le derrière de mon fils ! Impeccable !

Il est possible qu'il y ai aussi des champignons à l'emplacement des anciennes sourdines. Les marques rondes provenant je pense de la destruction progressive du feutre qui appuyaient dessus !

Tu penses à quoi comme fongicide ?

[Guig...]

Javel ?

[pirla]

solution à 10% de Javel: si c'est radical contre la mousse des terrasses, ça devrait le faire contre les champignons

Maintenant est-ce que chlore et peau animale vont faire bon ménage ...

As-tu cherché sur des sites de percussions ?

Sinon, j'ai trouvé ça

Generally speaking, natural skin heads should be treated in a similar manner you would treat the skin on your hands. If your hands feel dry and rough, your skin heads are also likely to be dry. If your hands feel damp or clammy, your skin heads have mostly likely absorbed some moisture. As a general rule, if your hands are uncomfortable, your natural skin heads probably need some attention.

Identifying Wet Skin Heads

Not much can be done to prevent heads from absorbing moisture, aside from keeping them away from overly humid environmental conditions. A damp head will expand and wrinkle, resulting in a very low or flat drum tone. Once an excessively damp head is returned to drier conditions, it will contract again, restoring the drum’s tone to approximately its previous tone.

Identifying Dry Skin Heads

Excessively dry heads can be susceptible to cracking, breaking, or possibly damaging the drum on which they are mounted. The drum tone produced from a dry head is very bright pitched and typically lacks resonance. If a head is becoming noticeably dry, it can be lightly moistened or conditioned to restore the drum’s tone.

Why does this happen?

Animal skins used for producing a drum head—whether it’s calf, goat, water buffalo, or another type of skin—are dried, ground, sanded, buffed, and soaked before being mounted to a flesh hoop. The skin is then dried again while being formed to a particular shape. During this second drying process, the skin becomes tight on its hoop. These finished drum heads, much like the skin on your hands, will absorb moisture from the air during humid conditions, and release moisture into the air during dry conditions. Skin heads will also absorb moisture and natural oils from your hands, as well as dirt which will gradually stain the head over time.

Treating Wet Heads

Overly damp heads are difficult to avoid in many environments, but if you find yourself at a humid performance venue with a flat drum tone, there are a couple things you can try. Heat will encourage the head to release its moisture. If you know the venue will be outdoors or in a humid environment, take a blow dryer with you. Avoid overheating the head while blow drying it as evenly as possible. If you are in a pinch, a warm lamp light could possibly produce enough heat as well. If your head is perpetually moist, wet the head on both sides with a damp cloth. Then place a small (3-4”) damp cloth on the center of one side of the head away from the edges and hoop. Store the head with the cloth on top in a warm, dry place for several hours or overnight. Once the outer edge of the head is dry, lift the cloth off the head and let the head dry completely for several more hours.

Treating Dry Heads

There are a number of myths about conditioning drumheads which recommend rubbing the head with various oils, soaking the head in water for a period of time, or even moistening the head with whiskey or beer. These types of treatments may actually produce negative results. If a dry skin head is treated with oil, it will then release that oil when the environment is humid again, making the head and drum shell greasy. If a mounted skin is re-soaked in water, the drying process could result in the head pulling from the flesh hoop on which it is mounted. Alcohol dries very quickly which could result in cracking or splitting—plus it is sticky and will begin to smell badly.

For quick, short-term conditioning of a dry head, dampen a soft cloth or towel with clean water, wring it out so it is not dripping wet, and wipe the head thoroughly with the damp cloth. Skin heads absorb water quickly, so you should find the drum tone changes with minimal effort. If the head is dirty, this is also a good way to scrub out any surface grime.

Another method involves conditioning the head with a fragrance-free hand cream. The hand cream should be made with natural oils, particularly lanolin. Lanolin is a fatty oil produced by wool-bearing animals such as sheep. It will replace the natural oils from the head without resulting in a greasy mess. With clean hands or a soft cloth, rub a very small amount of cream on the playing surface of the head. It’s better to start with a small amount and gradually apply more if necessary. Only coat one side of the head. Lanolin is a natural water-repellant—if both sides of the head are conditioned, the head will not absorb any moisture, resulting in a perpetually dry head. It is recommended that you wait several hours before striking the head to avoid damage during the conditioning process. This process can be repeated every few months to improve the lifetime of the head.

Cleaning Skin Heads

As stated earlier skin heads will absorb natural oils and dirt from your hands. Over time the head will become grimy and will begin to lose its resonance. Once a head reaches this stage, it is very difficult to clean and should probably be replaced. One way to lengthen the life of the head is to clean it regularly by scrubbing it with a cloth dampened with clean water. For heavier grime, a soft bristled brush or toothbrush can be used. Do not use soap—it will dry unevenly and possibly cause cracking or splitting.

Storage of Skin Heads

If you live in a region with frequently or rapidly changing temperatures or humidity levels, loosen the heads on the drums before returning them to their case, but do not remove them. This will allow the skin to expand and contract naturally without stretching or potentially cracking while mounted on the drum.



If your environment simply doesn’t allow you to fully enjoy your drum with a natural skin head, many companies also make a synthetic head which is affected much less dramatically by environmental changes. Hopefully these tips will allow you to understand and properly maintain your natural skin drumheads.

[chico]

Merci pour toutes ces infos !

Si j'avais des vieilles peaux qui ne risque rien ... J'essaierai bien un peu tout !

Le lait ne m'inquiète pas plus que l'eau !

La javel pourquoi pas !

L'eau écarlate... pour finir !

[krichon]

L'Eau Oxygénée est aussi un bon décolorant pour certaines taches organiques (sang par exemple) A essayer ... avec gants et lunettes et diluée de moitié au moins pour commencer....

[chico]

J'ai essayé le lait pour peau de bébé.
une petite bouteille à 1 euro 50 au supermarket...
C'est très bien pour un nettoyage mais cela ne retire pas les tâches etc... Par contre la peau retrouve une belle couleur. Cela décolle toutes les poussières etc... Et le coton est tout noir !!!
Merci pour la combine

[tazinnuedo]

fusion des trois premiers messages avec la suite.

bon, qui a testé la methode poncage? pirla??? ca fonctionne ou pas?